Pandal hopping is a Kolkata verb. Done badly it is five hours in a queue; done well it is one of the great walks in any Indian city. The rules are simple and locals follow all of them.
Go on Chaturthi or Panchami, before the official start, when the pandals are finished but the crowds have not arrived. Use the metro. Pick one part of the city per night and walk it. And eat as you go.
The names
Places, pujas and people, with what each one is| Name | Where | What it is |
|---|---|---|
| Chaturthi and Panchami | city-wide | Before the official start. The pandals are ready, the queues are not there yet. |
| The metro | north-south line | The only reliable transport during Puja. Runs extended hours through the five days. |
| North route | Bagbazar, Ahiritola, Kumartuli, Hatibagan, Shyambazar | Traditional pujas, walkable between, plus the idol-makers’ lanes. |
| South route | Ekdalia, Singhi Park, Maddox Square, Ballygunge Cultural, Deshapriya Park | The big designed pujas, close enough to walk. |
| Central route | College Square, Santosh Mitra Square, Mohammad Ali Park | Large, crowded, near the stations. |
| Salt Lake route | FD Block, AE Part 2, BJ Block, IB Block | The easy option; spacious and parkable. |
| Bonedi bari route | Sovabazar Rajbari, Chhatu Babu Latu Babu, Laha Bari | Quieter, older and best in the morning. |
| Late night | city-wide, after 1am | The crowds thin after one in the morning and the city stays open. |
| Heritage walk operators | city-wide | Several run guided bonedi bari and Kumartuli walks during the season. |
Worth knowing
- Chaturthi and Panchami. This is the single most useful thing to know.
- One area per night. Crossing the city during Puja is not possible.
- The metro runs extended hours; the roads do not move at all.
- After one in the morning the crowds thin and the pandals stay open.
- Carry water and wear shoes you can walk ten kilometres in.
More on Durga Puja
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