The potato is the difference. When Wajid Ali Shah, the deposed Nawab of Awadh, was exiled to Metiabruz in 1856, his kitchen cooked for a court on a reduced pension, and the potato — then a novelty in Bengal — went in to stretch the meat. Whether that is exactly how it happened, the Awadhi kitchen came with him and the potato stayed.
It is lighter and less spiced than Hyderabadi biryani, with the aroma carried by kewra, rose water and saffron rather than by chilli.
Central Kolkata
BBD Bagh · Esplanade · New Market · Park Street · College Street · Bowbazar · Burrabazar| Name | Where | What it is known for |
|---|---|---|
| Royal Indian Hotel1905 | Rabindra Sarani, Chitpur | The oldest of them; mutton biryani and chaap. |
| Aminia1929 | New Market and city-wide | A household name. |
| Shiraz Golden Restaurant1941 | Park Street and Mullick Bazar | One of the two or three benchmarks. |
| Sabir’s1930s | Chandni Chowk | Rezala and biryani. |
| Rahmania1930s | SN Banerjee Road | Old-style, plain room. |
| Zeeshan1990s | Park Circus | Large and consistent. |
South Kolkata
Bhowanipore · Kalighat · Gariahat · Ballygunge · Lake Market · Jadavpur · Tollygunge| Name | Where | What it is known for |
|---|---|---|
| Arsalan2002 | Park Circus and city-wide | The biggest of the modern houses. |
| Aminia | Rashbehari, Gariahat | The South Kolkata branches. |
| Metiabruz kitchens1856 | Metiabruz | Where the Awadhi court settled and the cooking arrived. |
East Kolkata
Salt Lake · Sector V · New Town · Rajarhat · Tangra| Name | Where | What it is known for |
|---|---|---|
| Arsalan | Salt Lake, New Town | The suburban outlets. |
| Aminia | Salt Lake | The Salt Lake branch. |
Worth knowing
- The potato is not optional and is not a shortcut.
- Milder than Hyderabadi by design.
- Chaap is the standard companion; rezala is the other Kolkata Mughlai dish.
- Firni in an earthen pot to finish.
The other dishes
Read the city another way
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