Macher jhol is the everyday Bengali fish curry — light, thin, turmeric and nigella, with potato and sometimes tomato. Bhetki fry is the other side: fillet in breadcrumb, fried, served with kasundi. Between them they cover most of how Bengal eats fish.
Kasundi — fermented mustard sauce — is what goes with the fry, and it is sharper than any mustard sold elsewhere.
South Kolkata
Bhowanipore · Kalighat · Gariahat · Ballygunge · Lake Market · Jadavpur · Tollygunge| Name | Where | What it is known for |
|---|---|---|
| 6 Ballygunge Place2003 | Ballygunge | Fish across the menu, several preparations. |
| Kewpie’s Kitchen1991 | Elgin Lane | Household-style fish cooking. |
| Bhojohori Manna2003 | Ekdalia Road and city-wide | Plain, well-cooked, fairly priced. |
| Oh! Calcutta1996 | Elgin Road | Smoked hilsa and daab chingri. |
| Gariahat fish market | Gariahat | Where South Kolkata buys; mornings. |
Central Kolkata
BBD Bagh · Esplanade · New Market · Park Street · College Street · Bowbazar · Burrabazar| Name | Where | What it is known for |
|---|---|---|
| Suruchi1960s | Elliot Road | Plain Bengali fish. |
| Aaheli1994 | Peerless Inn | The hotel version. |
| Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel1912 | College Street | Rice, dal and fish on a bench. |
North Kolkata
Shobhabazar · Shyambazar · Bagbazar · Hatibagan · Kumartuli · Jorasanko · Maniktala| Name | Where | What it is known for |
|---|---|---|
| Mitra Cafe1920 | Shobhabazar | Fish fry and kabiraji. |
| Maniktala fish market | Maniktala | The northern fish market. |
| Allen Kitchen1880s | Shyambazar | The prawn cutlet, which belongs in the same family. |
Worth knowing
- Kasundi with the fry, always.
- Bhetki for fry and paturi; rui and katla for the everyday jhol.
- Buy fish in the morning. Afternoon fish is yesterday's fish.
- The bones are part of it. Bengalis eat around them without thinking.
The other dishes
Read the city another way
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