Park Street & Continental in Kolkata

Park Street in the 1960s and 70s had live bands, cabaret and a dozen restaurants running until three in the morning. The bands are gone but most of the restaurants are still there, under the same names and in several cases with the same menus and the same waiters’ uniforms.

The food is Continental as Calcutta understood it: chateaubriand, chelo kebab, devilled crab, baked Alaska. It is not fashionable and is not trying to be, and that is the reason to eat it.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Flurys1927	18 Park Street	A Swiss tearoom opened by Joseph and Frieda Flury; breakfast, plum cake and the original Art Deco room.
Mocambo1956	Mirza Ghalib Street	Chateaubriand, devilled crab, baked Alaska. The waiters’ jackets have not changed.
Peter Cat1975	Middleton Row, off Park Street	The chelo kebab, which is essentially this restaurant’s own dish. Expect a queue.
Trincas1959	Park Street	The live music venue of the old Park Street; still has bands.
Oly Pub1947	Park Street	Beef steak and cheap beer, upstairs; an institution of a different kind.
Bar-B-Q1960s	Park Street	Chinese and Continental; a Park Street survivor.
Magnolia1960s	Park Street	Another of the old Park Street rooms.
Moulin Rouge1960s	Park Street	Continental, unchanged.
Nahoum & Sons1902	New Market	The Jewish bakery; fruit cake, brownies, cheese samosas.
Kookie Jar1983	Rawdon Street	The city’s best-known modern bakery.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Kookie Jar	Ballygunge and Lake Market	The suburban branches.
Saldanha Bakery1890s	Bow Barracks	An Anglo-Indian bakery in the Bow Barracks community.
Ballygunge and Southern Avenue restaurants	Ballygunge, Southern Avenue	The newer Continental and European rooms.

What to order

• Chelo kebab at Peter Cat — rice, butter, a fried egg, kebabs. A Kolkata invention.
• Chateaubriand at Mocambo, which has been on the menu since 1956
• A rum ball or a plum cake at Flurys, in the room it was built for in 1927
• Beef steak at Oly Pub, which is the other Kolkata institution and is cheap
• Trincas for the live music, which is one of the last places on the street that still has it

Other kinds of eating

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